1. Vacuum, assuming it is dirtier than it looks
Wool has terrific soil-hiding capability and will almost always be more soiled than it appears — a property of the fibre, not a failure of the housekeeping. Eighty per cent of the soil in any carpet is dry soil, and on wool it is hidden, which is why wool floors are routinely under-vacuumed.
2. Treat the spots first
Coffee, soda, red food dye, wine, food and protein stains, rust, gum, tar and grease do not come out in the cleaning process and each needs its own method — before the general clean, not after.
3. Pre-spray, under 8.5 pH
A wool-safe alkaline pre-spray with a pH no higher than 8.5, misted in a consistent overlapping pattern with more solution in the heavily soiled areas, and never allowed to dry before extraction. Heavy traffic can be agitated with wool-compatible brushes or a cylindrical brush machine.
4. Rinse acidic, 3.0 to 5.0 pH
A wool-safe acidic neutralising rinse in a portable or truck-mount extractor. This is the step that decides the job — see below.
5. Groom while damp and warm
Wool takes a set. Grooming prevents permanent jet streaks and wand marks, and it has to happen while the pile is still damp — clean a small section, set it, move on.
6. Dry it quickly
Air conditioning, ceiling fans, and preferably air movers. Speed here is what prevents browning, wicking and — on woven wool — shrinkage.